When most people start looking for a diamond, they think about size first. Bigger must be better… right?
Not quite.
The truth is, a poorly cut diamond can look dull and lifeless — even if it’s much larger than another stone. A well-cut diamond, on the other hand, can outshine a bigger one every time, catching the light in a way that feels almost magical.
If you’re choosing a diamond for an engagement ring, anniversary gift, or special heirloom, understanding cut is the most important step you can take to ensure your stone has that breathtaking sparkle.
What “Cut” Really Means
When we talk about “cut,” we’re not referring to the shape (oval, round, pear, etc.) — we’re talking about the precision of the diamond’s proportions, symmetry, and polish.
A diamond’s cut determines how light travels through the stone, how much is reflected back to your eye, and ultimately, how much it sparkles.
Even a flawless diamond in terms of colour and clarity can look flat if the cut is poor.
Why Proportions Matter
For fancy shapes like ovals, pear, or marquise, proportion is key. One common issue is the “bow tie effect” — a dark shadow that appears across the centre of the diamond when proportions aren’t optimal.
This happens when light leaks out of the stone instead of reflecting back up. It can make the centre look darker and reduce the diamond’s brilliance.
The right proportions minimise this effect, ensuring the diamond catches light from every angle.
How I Hand-Select My Diamonds
In my own designs, I only choose diamonds that pass a very specific set of criteria. Out of dozens of stones, only a select few make the cut.
For example, the oval diamonds I’ve recently added to my website are chosen for their perfect 1.40 ratio — an ideal proportion that enhances sparkle and reduces the bow tie effect. Each one is carefully examined for symmetry, polish, and overall light performance before it’s set into a design.
This extra attention to detail means you won’t find these stones in high street jewellers. They’re rare, they’re remarkable, and they’re one-of-a-kind.
How to Choose a Diamond That Truly Sparkles
If you’re in the market for a diamond, here’s what to prioritise:
-
Cut Grade – For round diamonds, look for Excellent or Ideal cut. For fancy shapes, work with a jeweller who understands proportion and light performance.
-
Proportion Ratios – Ask about length-to-width ratios (especially important for ovals and pears).
-
Symmetry & Polish – These influence how light moves through the stone.
-
See It in Different Lights – Natural daylight, indoor lighting, and LED all reveal different aspects of a diamond’s sparkle. (I am always happy to send you videos of your chosen stone in different lighting)
See My Hand-Selected Diamonds
I’ve added a small number of pieces to my website featuring diamonds that meet my strictest standards — chosen for their beauty, rarity, and light performance.
Each one is available now and will not be repeated once sold.
[View the collection here →]
